The Chuck Box
How to make your own camp kitchen
Jon Knudsen - January 5, 2020 Introduction
When my father’s chuck box was stolen from my truck I was determined to make another. I recreated the box from memory but did change it as I went along. I have to say that I really enjoyed building it! I am not a woodworker, but I did have an old radial arm saw, a power drill, and a hammer. I wished I had a table saw but didn’t. If you’re careful a circular saw would work. You would have to make fence guides to get accurate cuts.
The important thing is to take your time and enjoy the process. Be safe. Smile. Remember, mistakes are part of the story.
I tried to make it so that the joints were protected from the elements. I also made it so that the joints wouldn’t pull apart in normal use. When looking at the pictures remember that the chuck box is 15 years old and has seen lots of action. The corners look a little worn, but the box is as solid as it was when new.
It is built out of plywood, some of which is very thin. I used screws to fasten the thicker pieces, but small nails for most of the thin. Pre-drill screw holes and pre-drill nail holes with a tiny bit to help prevent splitting. Everything was glued when attached, held in place with the screws and nails, then the excess glue cleaned off with a damp rag before it hardened. Use a small nail set on the nails and fill them with matching wood putty. Filling the holes will keep the holes protected. (I know some of you don’t need to be told any of this, but I am writing this for everybody).
By the way, Home Depot may deliver materials if the cost is over $45. You could ask. But with 4’ square plywood pieces, they probably will fit into most vehicles. They can also custom cut plywood if necessary.
Materials
Plywood comes in various finishes and materials. I think I used common B/C grade in 4’x8’ sheets. This made 2 full-size boxes plus enough for a smaller one.
1 1/2” plywood 4’x4’
1 1/4” plywood 4’x4’
1 bottle good wood glue
1 box 3/4” brads stainless
1 box 3/8” wood screws stainless…You need about 30
1 box 3/4” wood screws stainless…You need about 25
1 can stain…I used “natural”
1 can exterior polyurethane finish (satin or semigloss)
2 carrying handles
2 drawer pulls for front handles
4 strap hinges
2 cabinet door catches
Cutting Dimensions
*****************1/4” PLYWOOD***************
TOP 23 x 13 1/4
BACK 23 X 14 1/4
SHELVES 12 3/8 X 11
DRAWER- (4) 11 7/8 x 2 7/8 (Check for SIDES fit during drawer assembly).
DRAWER- (2) 4 3/8 X 2 7/8
BACKS
DIVIDER#2 6 1/4 x 12 1/2 LEFT side: Cut 1/4” wide groove 3 1/2” from top.
DRAWER- (2) 11 5/8 X 4 3/8
BOTTOMS
******************1/2” PLYWOOD***************
SIDES (2) 14 1/4 x 12 3/8.
LEFT SIDE 1/4” wide groove cut 6 1/2” from top and 1/4” wide groove cut 3 1/8” from top
RIGHT SIDE 1/4” wide groove cut 9 1/2” from top
BOTTOM 22 x 12 1/2
DOORS 22 7/8 x 14 1/8 (Saw down middle for doors to keep grain pattern)
DIVIDER#1 13 3/4 x 12 1/2. 1/4” wide grooves cut 6 1/2” down on LEFT side and 9 1/2” down on RIGHT side.
DRAWER- (2) 5 x 2 7/8
FRONTS
CLEATS (2) 11 1/2 x 1
I imagine you are shaking your head after seeing all the fractions above. Well, okay. I agree. Just remember there is a difference between nominal and actual dimensions in plywood.
Assembly
It’s best to sand all pieces before assembly. Don’t worry too much about ends that are going to be covered with glue. I also stained mine before assembly. I can’t remember if I applied the polyurethane before or after assembly. Maybe I put on a couple coats before and gave the exterior a couple more after putting it together.
1. Remember to cut grooves for shelves (about 3/16ths deep) in all 1/2” sides and dividers.
2. Glue and screw the 1/2 “ sides to the bottom.
3. Glue and nail pack to sides and bottom.
4. Glue and nail top to sides and back. Pre-drill nail holes on back to prevent splitting this thin piece of plywood.
5. Insert long 1/2 inch divider between top and bottom. Glue and fasten using screws on the bottom and nails on the top. Check location by inserting shelves.
6. Insert short 1/2” divider on shelf and mark location. Remove and glue and nail bottom. Reinsert and glue and nail top. Remember to use a nail set and fill all exposed nail holes.
7. Glue and screw cleats to bottom side of box making sure the screw heads are somewhat recessed. The cleats are extremely important. They absorb most of the punishment the box receives being moved about.
8. Assemble drawers with glue and nails. Cut notches in front. Install shelf that they slide on.
9. Sand all sharp edges.
10. Paint with exterior grade polyurethane in your desired gloss. I did several coats, more on the exterior surfaces.
Hardware
Regular strap hinges like I used need to be bent so that the holes line up satisfactorily on both sides on the hinge. I put the long side on the hinge in a vise, protected the short side with a small piece of wood and used a hammer. It worked fine. I used inexpensive drawer pulls for the doors. The handles are stout…maybe too stout. Home Depot has some that are not quite so heavy, but at the time the big ones were part of the look I was after.
I used roller-type door catches because they are a bit stronger that the magnet-type for those times when the vehicle is bouncing around.
Final thoughts
From my experience of having my dad’s chuck box returned to me after it was stolen and then recovered because my name was on the bottom of the box, I would suggest this whole-heartedly. Put your name, date, and a way of getting hold of you. If it is a gift, note that. It will be important to somebody a long, long time from now.
